Wednesday, December 3, 2008

More Snow

Another snowy day today. It's been a nice light snow for most of the morning although it may pile up to between 3-7" by tonite. We'll worry about snow removal throughout the lights show tomorrow. Snow is good, rain is bad. We'll take the white stuff. Small crew today. Little Jerry and Janice stopped in to do some odd jobs while Del, Dick H., Dr. Gredler and Maury all popped by as well. Del is still working on making reindeer cutouts for the holiday show. I've enjoyed going thru seed catalogs the past couple of days (see below). We probably order seeds from over 50 vendors and like to have all our orders in by early January. The catalogs are rolling in daily. Essentially, our planning for next year starts immediately. In upcoming blogs, I'll recommend some of my favorite seed sources and mail order resources. I always like to emphasize the importance of patronizing your local garden centers first before ordering from other (non-local) vendors. Garden centers are selling amaryllis bulbs and kits this time of year. What a great gift for the young gardener or those that like interior color as our landscapes become more drab! At the bottom of this blog is an article I wrote on amaryllis a couple of years ago. My younger daughter still talks about the ones she's started in the past!
Although winter colors can be striking in the garden, the muted tones of browns, greens and a hopeful dusting of white tends to make us focus on our indoor plants for color as we long for spring. A great gift for adults and children alike are amaryllis. This easy-to-grow bulb can be grown indoors (forced) for a dramatic show of color in the dreary winter months. Garden centers and retailers typically sell individual amaryllis bulbs and amaryllis “kits” that have everything you need to get started.

The amaryllis originated in the Andes Mountains of Chile and Peru although there is a South African counterpart to this bulb. Most amaryllis offered for retail are Dutch or African hybrids selected for flower size, color and ease of forcing. Lily-shaped flowers are borne on a tall stem between 18 and 36 inches. Flower colors include white, lavender, crimson, scarlet, rose, pink, salmon and many bi-colored combinations. Each bulb may only produce one flower cluster of two to four blooms although individual blossoms can reach up to 8 inches in diameter.

Newly purchased bulbs should be kept in a cool, dry location with air circulation until they can be planted. Plant an individual amaryllis bulb in a heavy pot with drainage holes that is twice the height of the bulb (typically 6-8” in depth). The pot should also be just a few inches wider than the width of the bulb as amaryllis roots love to be root bound. Amaryllis kits will include proper containers and soil for planting. Use a sterile, lightweight planting mix that contains peat moss or other organic material. Incorporate a slow-release fertilizer into this mix. Plant the bulb, pointed end up, with one-third of the bulb above the final soil line. Press soil firmly around the sides and water thoroughly with lukewarm water. Avoid pouring water over the top of the bulb. Water the sides of the pot or apply water to a saucer at the base of the pot so water can be drawn upwards by the soil. Water sparingly until the first shoots appear. Keep the soil moist but not too damp. Then place the amaryllis in a sunny windowsill in a cool location (55-65 degrees F). Staggering the planting of multiple bulbs every two weeks from September thru February will allow for continuous color until May as some bulbs peak while others wane.

The amaryllis bulb will send up leaves and a flower stalk very quickly and blooms will appear within six to eight weeks of planting. As the flower bud forms, start applying a light liquid fertilizer every ten days or so until the amaryllis blooms. At this point, you may need to stake the flower stalk, as the amaryllis becomes “top heavy”. Be careful that your stake does not pierce the amaryllis bulb. As the flowers emerge, place the amaryllis in an area with indirect sunlight to prolong the bloom time. A blooming amaryllis does not need direct sunlight or even a bright room. At this point, adequate watering is very crucial. Remove spend blossoms as they fade. This prevents seed formation, which diverts food from the bulb itself.

Many people consider these a seasonal plant and compost them when they are done blooming. However, following certain procedures may allow you to keep these bulbs and promote future flowering. This can be a frustrating endeavor as reblooming is not always assured due to so many cultural factors and it may take years to achieve another colorful show.

If you want to experiment with “reblooming” your amaryllis, cut the spent flower stalk down to 2” and wait for the leaves to yellow and die back. Water and fertilize as you would a houseplant until the leaves have died back. This can take many months. Cut and remove leaves once they have turned brown. Place near a sunny window at about 55 degrees F. At this point, your amaryllis needs a period of cool, dry dormancy. Withhold water for two months until you see new growth emerging. Carefully re-pot the bulb and repeat the steps above. You may need to use a larger pot if your bulb has increased in size significantly.

Amaryllis is named after a shepherdess in Greek mythology. Amaryllis means “sparkling” in Greek and you will certainly understand this meaning when these plants light up the inside of your home with color and relieve the winter doldrums. Consider amaryllis as a holiday gift for gardeners, children or others that will appreciate the simple joy of nurturing a plant.

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